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Picked up a new airbox to replace my existing one. I have started modifying it for the new intake setup.



Mocking up the plate for the LTZ intake:



I wanted to get rid of the graphics on the tank, which would allow me to get rid of the graphics on the tank shrouds. I noticed however blue plastics are getting harder to find, so I decided to go black.



After paint:



Final fitment of the LTZ intake:

It's a tight fit. I ended up putting the pipe in the press to oval it some to gain some clearance, and it's still less clearance than I'd like but it does clear.



Cut a rubber gasket for the intake plate to go between the plate and the air box.



Decided to polish the intake tube. That is a port for the oil box, just like factory.



I had ovaled the pipe even more than I had the previous day because it was such a tight fit around the shock. Then I had lined the air box and plate with some hose to make it air tight. However once every thing was bolted tight, nothing cleared. So now I only have hose on one side to move the pipe away from the shock. The hose clamp on the pipe (it has black heat shrink around it to make it look better, and protect the aluminum intake some) will help be a barrier between the aluminum intake the shock / spring should they happen to touch now. The dab of silicone on one side will hopefully keep everything from rattle or moving too much.



Next exhaust got mounted.

It's the MRD Z-Pro, so it's tight everywhere. Notice my homemade low profile bolt in the engine mount. I couldn't come up with a button head bolt this late in the day on the weekend.



The black body work is starting to go on.



My bike has always had an HID in it, however to go with the rest of new black plastics, I decided to swap over to a black LED headlight. I didn't want to hack up any of the factory stuff, so below is my solution. It will still be adjustable, just not without removing the headlight shroud (how often do you really adjust the headlight though?)



Added a small piece between the two mounting tabs for the headlight. Really the only purpose it serves is a place to zip tie wiring to, and it keep the wiring up off the light. That's why there isn't one on the bottom.



Of course don't want to leave it bare aluminum, so it got a coat of black paint:

Ordered a couple heat shields, ended up ordering one more. Decided on this one for the moment. Note that's not the way DRC makes them, I did polish it some.



Since the headlight is almost done, time to get the AFR gauge and the O2 sensor wired up.



Bracket installed on the new headlight, and the rubber gasket in place around the new headlight. The OEM headlight had foam gasket material there, so I figured the new light should have something.



LED headlight installed:



I'm still going back and forth on the heat shield, but out of the ones I ordered, this one definitely looks the best.

Starting final assembly



The big bore build and black conversion completed:





My eBay LED headlight had started to fog up internally. So I decided to replace it with a JNS Engineering DOT version. It did just bolt in as advertised. The only thing I liked a little better about my bracket was the brace at the top which gave me a spot to mount the wires to. The light however, is much better and brighter.



Swapping the front turn signals required new front brackets. They sell filler pieces for the OEM brackets, but it's pretty easy to make new ones:

I went with the 12 OClock Labs Advanced Programmable Turn Signals:



Finally decided to pick up a kick start kit:

Upgraded to a set of Warp 9 tubeless wheels, which meant it was a good time to replace the chain, sprockets, and brake pads as well:



Definitely changes the look of the bike:

Added a PMR tethered kill switch. The extra switch under the tether, is wired as a bypass for the cooling fan. This allows me to turn the fan on whenever I want.



Ordered a aluminum case saver from eBay. Still not entirely sold on this one. It arrived anodized black. I removed the anodizing, and polished.



I missed having indicator lights. So I ordered the Striker dashboard from TrailTech. So I once again have turnsignal indicators and a bright indicator. The red lens that I removed the icon from, lights up when the cooling fan is on. I did this so I can't forget and leave the bypass switch on, or it would also bring my attention to an overheating condition.



Replaced my eBay Fatbars with a new set, that is a slightly lower profile.



Ordered a set of ASV Levers as well while I was replacing things. Had to replace the clutch perch as well so the levers matched since I'm running a Honda master cylinder. Also picked up some Cycra Pro Bend Handguards with the triple mounts.

Been slowly polishing things. Polished the rear master cylinder guard recently. However, now it makes the rear sub-frame stand out more. I think some more polishing will be in order.

Looks dope!